Interacting with the local Chief

​Like in most traditional Ghanaian villages, you are to visit the local Chief first thing after arrival. The Chief of Tenzug was most welcoming! While the presentation of gifts like money, kolanuts or booze is often treated as a formality, the Chief of Tenzugu invited me for conversation, food and half a calabash of locally brewed beer. Only this was worth going out here!

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​Village Tour

As Tenzug has become more and more a mix of tradition and modern development in recent years, the guided walk around the tiny village shows how life used to be and how some things are changing. You may be showed such things as the old school (a natural platform under an overhanging rock) and the newly build primary school, the important traditional gathering places for nature worshiping and several traditional homesteads. If you are interested in certain topics, such as religious matters, farming, water supply, preparing local food or traditions, the tour is strongly recommended. Cost of the village tour is about EUR 1,50.

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Among the new developments in Tenzug is the appearance of one single green waste bin in the fields near the Chief's House, another brilliant idea of USAID! Closer inspection learned that the bin was half filled with peanut shells. A better idea are the solar energy generating cells that provide the Chief's House with sufficient electricity to keep the television and the single “street” lantern going at night.

Also funded by USAID is a model Talensi (tribe) House, which was not yet finished when I visited, but which is planned to be a future tourist attraction and maybe developed as a guesthouse for tourists and pilgrims. Note that my examples of new developments may sound a bit silly, but need to say also school and medical services have dramatically improved as a result.

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Chief's House

Request to have a look around the complex! It is a fascinating ever growing collection of circular mud houses for all relatives of the Chief, seperated by tiny narrow passages. Although not as extensive as the one in nearby Paga for example, at least the people here are very welcoming and you feel at ease at once.

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Visit the Ba'ar Tonna'ab ya' nee Shrine

​Tourists interested in traditional beliefs may want to take a tour to the well known shrine in the hills near Tenzug. On the way up there you will pass several minor shrines, most notably the donkey cave, where donkeyskulls are kept after the animals were ritually sacrificed to please the oracle. Tourists are not expected to offer a donkey or whatever else, but you pay a fixed fee for the tour. At the shrine you can interact with the fetish man, who does not refuse a small tip.

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The importance of the ancestors' shrine was already recognized by the late 19th century. Later, the shrine mysteriously survived many attacks from the British and as a result gained more and more importance. Until today the remote Tonna'ab shrine is visited by Ghanaians from all over the country, especially Ashanti people. The oracle is mostly consulted for healing purposes. A fetish man in the cave acts as medium between human beings and the oracle. If you seek help don't forget somthing to sacrifice.

 

Access to the shrine only with bare breasts and feet

Access to the shrine was only allowed on bare feet and with bare chest. Now I found this no issue myself, but there were some young Peace Corps girls in a group who felt somewhat shy about it. I could imagine, because in the USA I believe it is not very common to get half naked to the Priest and his Council, before prayer commences. Anyway, I thought it was a joke invented by the local boys, but the girls themselves were persuaded easily and didn't mind so much after all. After all, this was Africa we shall call it cultural differences.

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Tongo Hills

The Tongo Hills are not just awesome for easy hiking and good views, but have been of historical importance too. Long before the British arrived, the hills formed a natural barrier between ancient kingdoms, and many battles took place here. Also they functioned as hideouts during slave raids and later as a refuge during the period of resistance against the British Colonial Rule. A guide explains all of this to you and takes you on a hike to see several historical evidences such as secret shelters, mostly used during slave raids. Some of the hard to find caves still contain tools and provisional kitchens. The guided walk tour took around two hours and was worth my time.

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The area around Tenzug is really dotted with amazingly balanced rock formations and pretty homesteads. You could make great walks here! However if nature is the only reason for your visit to Tenzug, and you've spend time already in the region, you might be a little disappointed. It's certainly beautiful around Tenzugu and Tongo  and adds a lot to the cultural experience, but in my opinion it is not on par to the sheer beauty of a place like Bongo Hills.

 

Transportation

Tenzug is just 17 kilometers from Bolgatanga and can be reached by shared vehicles occasionally leaving for Tongo from the Bolgatanga Tongo Station. As always best chances are on market days. From Tongo it is just a 40 minutes, very enjoyable walk to Tenzugu village. Be sure to return to the Tonga road before it's getting dark.

More sure is to charter a taxi from Bolgatanga, which is usually very affordable as the distance is short and the charge for waiting time not too much.