A memory of Ushguli village

It has stopped raining and before dinner is being served, I put on my hiking boots. Through the mud I make my way along ancient defense towers and other stone structures, of which I have no idea whether they have been abandoned or that there may be people or animals housed. A farmer brings his animals home; a cowboy makes his horse prance. Two neighborhood dogs, normally behaving ugly, follow me faithfully, or walk ahead, and sometimes look back to see if I am still there. Just outside the hamlet I walk up the hill, where a 900 years old church oversees everything. A bearded monk has just changed his robes for jeans and t-shirt and is harvesting some vegetables. Twilight and heavy clouds give the environment an isolated but intimate feel. Then I climb up further and eventually sit down on top of a rock. Looking down in the distance, I see the green valley with its wild glacier river merge into the massive snow slopes of five thousander Mt. Shkara. When I turn around I see Ushguli, with its striking skyline, disappearing into the darkening valley. Two teenage girls dance on the grass, sing along with their cell phone out of sheer joy. I feel touched by the very beautiful moment.

Then the blissful scene is cruelly disturbed. An SUV drives up the hill, hellish music blares out of the speakers, two drunk lads throw open the doors and enter our peaceful setting. The girls move away in a big rush. I too retreat, cross the open field, deeply into thoughts, and then suddenly get the fright of my life. A mighty gigantic bull wildly shakes his head, produces furious noises and then start running, straight towards me!! I flee from fear of death, but I see no way out. I run and run, then carefully look back and notice with relief that the beast has now turned its attention to a drafty cow. When I enter my guesthouse not much later, dinner is ready, spread over 14 dishes.

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