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Ghana: Bolgatanga
Convenient base for exploring Ghana's Upper east

Bolgatanga is the capital of Upper East, and the first substantial town I came across after entering Ghana from Burkina Faso. I took my time in "Bolga" and was more than rewarded.  I found a nice and cheap room with A/C en TV - a real treat - and spent a total of eight great days relaxing and exploring the region. Bolga is easy going and without hassles. It's the kind of place where you feel at home soon. Although not many tourists visit here other than in transit, the area is perfectly developed for off the beaten path exploration.  Several villages host community- and ecotourism projects, which offer a unique chance to mingle with rural communities in a responsible and sustainable way. And because all roads end in Bolga, transport is rarely a problem.

Bolgatanga Market

​Bolgatanga has a major regional market in the center of town that bustles every three days. Although (because?) not at all catering for tourists, it's an entertaining spectacle. The market is also a good place to find freshly prepared and cheap street food. As a nice daylight snack, women serve delicious fried yam slices with spicy herbs, not to be missed!! For lunch try the rice balls in peanut sauce. In the evenings you can get kenkey from the street stalls in the area near the Investment Bank, although there are no lights and it's hard to see what's on your plate. Near the market is a Total petrol station, where you may find some luxury snacks and the always refreshing range of Fan Ice Products.

​Ghana Tourism Board (GTB)

Every regional capital in Ghana has its own GTB office that should be aware of the latest tourism initiatives. I found the GTB Office in Bolgatanga especially a good source of information. It is closely involved in many projects and - for instance - advised me to visit the rather remote and rarely visited village of Widnaba, that just opened up for guests. It was an excellent experience. The building along Navrongo Road was not signposted and unfortunately a little hard to find. If you start at Black Star Hotel, pass the SSNIT Complex House and then turn left towards Navrongo. The building is at the left hand side, about 200 meters away.

​Bolgatanga museum

If you have an hour or so to kill, why not visit the local museum!  It is small but has interesting displays on the people in the region, arts, crafts, dresses and architecture, as well as a collection of prehistoric tools and pottery found in the region. The museum is hard to find and not signposted; start asking directions at the big sports field opposite Black Star Hotel.

St. Joseph Hotel

This is probably the most popular hotel in town and for a good reason. Why?

​* Cheap: clean double s/c room with AC and TV for just $7 a night; channels include one of Africa's best: Tanzania based ITV.

* Central: next to the market, lorry park and main street;

* Bar: large variety of ice cold beers, including Guiness. Very popular.;

* Food: not great, but there's not much variety in Bolga elsewhere. Simple meals are served every day except Sundays; on busy evenings roasted guinea fowl (THE local specialty!) may be available;

* Friendly: helpful and nice staff.

 

Note: the cheapest rooms are totally run down and rather poor value.

Directions: located in a hidden corner of the Lorry Park, near the National Investment Bank. However, at the time of writing a new location for the lorry park was about to be opened, about five minutes walk from the hotel.

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Navrongo Catholic Church

Those who are interested in rural Catholic churches may want to see the one in the small town of Navrongo, on a (half) day excursion from Bolgatanga. It was German built in 1919 and has religious murals in typical local style with the geometrical patterns.

Visited: Aug 2003

Tips & Impressions originally posted on Virtualtourist.com

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