Ghana: Bongo Hills
Follow the Catholic Pilgrims trail (and eat some fresh groundnuts)
One of the rock piles nearby Bongo Village is home to an important Catholic shrine that attracts large numbers of pilgrims every year. The walking trial crosses a very scenic area, one of the most beautiful in the region I'd say, a green carpet dotted with baobab trees and stunning boulder formations.
Spending 2-3 hours would be sufficient to complete a guided walk to the shrine and back.
My visit to Bongo differed a bit from those to other villages in the region. In Bongo there was no organized tourism, and it even did not have a Chief to report to. I was told he died half a year earlier and there was not a successor yet. In addition, no one spoke English, so when I arrived it was not easy to find someone to guide me. After some 20 minutes wasting my time around the trotro park with a dozen of uninterested blokes, a 7 or 8 year old boy showed up, who knew a few words and we agreed he would take me up to the hills. But then very soon it was obvious he had never been there... and I was close to change my mind. He then took me along a small trail to meet a young man, who explained in very decent English he was the regular one to guide visitors. I thanked the small boy anyway with some coins.
We walked through large peanut crop fields, and then crossed a stunning area of tall green grasses, full of strange rock formations and baobab trees. Awesome scenery, almost out of a painting. We were up to the nearer of two upcoming hills, to the Shrine indeed but not less for the fantastic views.
Music Rock
About half way to the hill, we passed a rock formation that is locally known as Music Rock. When knocking stones on its surface, it will produce deep resonating beats that vary in sound depending on the exact spot of contact. People apparently used to make music here and dance. I have no idea if the art of rock drumming is still known here, like in Nania Paga; my guide at least was not one of the experts...but it was fun to practice a little.
When you approach the first of the two hills, numbered markers show the pilgrimage trail to the Shrine near the hilltop. It involves a 20 minute scramble on big boulders and crawling through narrow rock passages. Apart from the catholic images, there are also great panoramic views over Bongo Village and its countryside.
On the way back, we once more crossed peanut fields and lush meadows; two kids came running from the distance, carrying a big smile and a basket of freshly harvested peanuts. They seemed to be so happy to offer it to us, as a gift. That was nice. We exchanged some friendly words, took a handful of peanuts and continued.
Transport
The last stage of my visit to Bongo was one that always concludes my village trips.....patiently waiting for any vehicle to leave to town. Fortunately, it was late afternoon and the last tro-tro of the day was about to leave. Full as always and carrying a dozen of goats and sheep on its roof...
Generally, there is quite a lot of traffic between Bolgatanga and Bongo, and it just takes about half an hour one way. If you are up to the short hike to the Bongo rocks and hills, best is to plan for early morning or late afternoon, from 4PM; otherwise the sun will be unbearable. Bring water!
Visited: Aug 2003
Tips & Impressions originally posted on Virtualtourist.com