The rural settlement of Widnaba (Google maps: Widenaba), situated in the Red Volta River Valley, is - as per 2004 - the latest addition on the list of participating villages in Ghana's superb Eco- and Community Based Tourism Project. Actually, I appeared to be the first traveler to experience the project after realization. It had taken Peace Corps volunteers and participants more than two years to overcome several difficulties, but they succeeded and finally had the brochures printed.

The Red Volta Project was originally meant to be developed in a nearby village, but at a point of almost completion, a dispute with the local Chief arose, and the Project was dismissed. With the welcoming Chief of Widnaba, it was better luck. A beautifully situated Visitor's Centre was build, local guides were trained and some kind of path was cleared in the hills to allow hikes (because that's what tourists like to do!). Everything was ready to receive the first guests, when heavy rains destroyed much of the 14 km. dirt track to the settlement. No cars could pass; no funds for repairing.....But after reading the brochure I was curious, rented a bicycle from a local Peace Corps volunteer and drove down there... and it turned out to be a great experience!

​Journey to Widnaba

I took off from Bolgatanga with one of the regular buses to Bawku, and had myself dropped in a village called Tilla, at the junction to Widnaba. As there was no onward transport, people at a roadstall directed me to the residence of a local Priest.  He was very enthusiastic about my desired visit to Widnaba and promptly he offered me a ride all the way on the back of his motorbike. But I craved for a bicycle ride to enjoy the peaceful countryside, which looked beautiful after the long rains. Also it was my plan to stay overnight in Widnaba and so I would be more flexible for the return trip if I had a bicycle.

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The helpful Priest drove me to a compound 200 meters off road, where Peace Corps volunteers resided. Some days earlier, after I visited the Shrine of Tenzugu Village, I got stuck at the roadside in near darkness, and was lucky enough to get a ride with a passing Peace Corps vehicle. To them, I had mentioned Widnaba as a possible next destination, and so the American girl who opened the door in Tilla said she had somehow expected me already. So that was great.

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She introduced me to the history of the program and offered me to join me to Widnaba. What if I missed the road, if I had a flat tire, and would the guides be ready for their duties? I firmly declined the offer and picked one of their nice racing bikes to rent for 24 hours. The fee was agreed on about EUR 2,--., proceeds for the Tilla community.

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Then I left Tilla. The sun was harsh at 11AM, the landscapes a little hilly and more than once I had to carry the bike over a mess that once was a decent road. It was tiring, but I enjoyed it a lot. The area seemed completely deserted at this hour. Trees were rare, but I found one, near a stream, that offered some good shadow for a break. After about an hour I approached Widnaba and overtook a young man just returning from the fields. He introduced himself as the Prince, Son of the Chief of Widnaba. Fifteen minutes more, he explained, and I should turn left at a three feet wide path, that would lead me to the Chief's Palace. Now there were dozens of such paths, so I was glad it was signposted anyway.

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The Chief's Palace consisted of a large conglomeration of circular mud houses, many of them attached to each other. A few friendly guys, hanging out there under a tree, welcomed me. One of them introduced himself as the Chief, whom I already had recognized from the brochure. He appointed someone to prepare for my stay, while he offered me a bowl of water and a relaxing chair in the meantime.

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An hour later I was resting under the branches of a gigantic tree at the newly constructed Visitors Center, with its fine, decorated walls. A man swept my rarely used room; a container of water was carried in. The headmaster's wife served me a fantastic meal of Benku. Everything was just perfect.

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Wildlife walking tour

It is a rather optimistic thought, but in theory it is possible to spot some of the around 150 elephants left in the region - that sometimes move from the Northern Togo Parcs into the Red Volta Valley Region during harvest season. However, chances are very small as the villages do everything they can to chase them away. The elephants used to severely damage farmer's fields and eat the crops, and for many past years the only way to survive seemed to kill them. Some years ago, an alternative pilot project started here, and appeared to be successful. In this project, about 1000 farmers organized themselves in elephant monitoring groups, and large numbers of traditional instruments, normally used to call people from far to gather for funeral ceremonies, were distributed. The sound that is produced can be heard over more than four kilometers, and proved to scare the elephants away from the farms. probably only until they get used to them of course. An very creative solution, but do not expect too much from this Tour in terms of wildlife. Start the tour around 6AM the latest; a nice hike in the woods and fields, and hope for some nice birds and smaller bush animals. ...for sure you will encounter something interesting during this tour, animals or not...

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Historical walking tour

​As in so many Ghanaian places, colonialism and slave trade are part of Widnaba's history that cannot easily be forgotten. During a guided tour I was shown a hollow baobab tree in which potential slaves were held captive, waiting to be sold at the market. You will be invited to enter it, to get a feel of the reality of the past. It is a horrible experience. Near the tree, the foundations of a former English compound are still visible. From here, slave raiders roamed the countryside for healthy locals that could be of value of visiting slave traders. The guide also took me to several spots around Widnaba that are considered sacred because of their proven protective qualities (like invisibility) against slave raiders and other enemies. These stories of the spirits are quite intriguing. The guided tour took about 1,5 hour and cost less than $2,-- per person. Like all tours in the Program, a third or half the fee you'll pay is destined for the community development fund. The rest is salary for the guide.

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Hills Hiking tour

A rather enjoyable tour involves walking in the green hills to the North of Widnaba. The hike goes up along a trail just 10 minutes north of the Guesthouse. Then it's a wandering through tall grasses, traversing hill tops for about 45 minutes before it descents.  These new trails were only partially cleared when I visited, as all men were occupied with harvesting. So the going was a bit rough. The panorama's from the little explored hills was nice. To the south there's Widnaba and surroundings, to the north the vast plains of Burkina Faso, to the East the Bongo Hills area. For those interested in crossing the Burkina Faso Border, even for a few minutes, the hills behind Widnaba offer the best opportunities. During this Hills Hike Tour you will pass a marker that is the border between Ghana and Burkina Faso. Sunset is a good time be here. Unfortunately there was no good place to sit down and relax... but that might be considered, once the village receives more visitors.

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People of Widnaba

The people of Widnaba, called the Kusaasi, arrived here on their way from Burkina Faso in search of good land. Their first harvest was spectacular, and their horses delivered even three foals! So they decided to settle on this land and call it Widnaba, which means Horse Chief. Ancestor and nature spirits still play an active role in this region. If you are lucky, you may bump into a ceremony or another traditional feast. Storytelling is another favorite pastime that can easily be arranged, and you will be able to organise some traditional drumming and dancing. In both cases, a good tip or gift will be appropriate. However, my idea of partying after a tough but brilliant day was to have a portion of local brew with the local guys. So I asked a guy to go to the nearest market and buy a 5 liter jerrycan with unclear but nice light alcoholic brew.  ​

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The Kusaasi are very open and hospitable people and I am sure you would enjoy their company!