Ghana: Senya Beraku
Impressed but a bit shocked as well
Senya Beraku was the first place in Ghana outside of Accra that I visited and spent a night. I was impressed but a bit shocked as well. The main attraction here is watching the arrivals of the fishing boats, and wandering around the fish market right on the beach, the liveliest I've see in Ghana. Also - but hardly an attraction - there's an early 18th century Dutch Castle (Fort of Good Hope), which has been converted to a decent guesthouse annex bar. It offers superb views over the sea and the beach.
The beaches of Senya Beraku are not suitable for recreational use but, if you need to, you could take a taxi to Fete, a 20 minutes' drive, to try the comforts of some private beach resorts. Going out for an unaccompanied walk around Senya Beraku town is everything but very much appealing. Don't get me wrong, most people are kind and even may invite you in their houses - as I experienced. But practically nothing of Senya Beraku - outside the castle - looks good. Houses, roads, everything is in an enormous state of disrepair. Garbage all over. People dropping feces in open spaces such as the beach. And then the countless children, who are not only amongst the dirtiest looking in all of the Ghana I've been, but also amongst the most persistent beggars I encountered in all Africa. So, although it may be an eye-opener to have a look around Senya Beraku town, be warned of a little culture shock if you do so during the first days of your holiday. I recommend to stick to the beach and fort areas for the best experience from a regular tourist point of view.
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The Fort of Good Hope
High above the beach, partially hidden behind coconut palms, looms the Fort of Good Hope (built in 1715), a bit of a controversial name for a place that has been used for slave trade by the Dutch and British for more than a century and a half. The fort itself is not very spectacular or large, but well maintained indeed. It hosts a decent guesthouse these days and a bar from where you overlook the shoreline while enjoying a cold beer.
Staying at the Fort is quite an experience
The rooms are tidy, there's electricity and fresh water supply. If you're not fancy buying food from the street stalls outside, you can order a meal (fish of course!) from the caretaker. It was exceptionally good. Within the premises of the fort there's a small shop with basic toiletries, snacks, and cold drinks. Despite all these comforts, I felt a bit uneasy staying here, being served a fantastic meal and some large cold beers, sitting behind a table in the courtyard placed between two canons, while dozens of hungry children gathered around the thick walls, shouting things hoping for whatever...
Arrivals of fishing boats
Witness the craft of the fishermen bringing in their catch with their colorful boats. Especially impressive at times of many arrivals (late morning was such a time when I visited), when the beach is full of people. See how strong women go hip deep into the water to have their huge baskets filled up straight from the boats, carrying these ashore on their heads; where dozens of traders and private persons eagerly wait to buy a share. Small children play around, gathering "lost" sardines, while older kids sell snacks, fruits and everything else people may need. Uniformed guards regulate the market and keep an eye on business and security.
There's so much activity; spectacular it is really. When a boat is sold out, procedures start to pull it onto the beach, a fascinating exercise that involves at least 20 strong men and plenty of supporting tools. Afterwards you'll see men repairing and maintaining the nets and the boats. It is fascinating to observe everyday life so closely here!
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Visited: Aug 2003
Tips & Impressions originally posted on Virtualtourist.com