Cape Coast, Elmina and Kakum NP

Travelling west of Accra you will soon reach the big city of Cape Coast. The Cape Coast Castle here used to play a major role in slave trafficking. Nowadays it's by far the most frequently visited such castle in of all Ghana. The site very well maintained and organised, and you can book a guided tour on arrival. Elmina is a smaller town just a short ride from Cape Coast, and is the friendly and cosy of the two. Elmina's St. George's Castle is less overrun by tourists than the Cape Coast version, but offers an equal experience in terms of history, architecture and quality of local guidance. The town has a busy and fascinating fishing harbor and fish market too. Just an hour inland, a visit to the Kakum National Park is recommended. The Park is extremely rich in flora & fauna, but the best known attraction must be the canopy walk, a 350m long suspension bridge about 40m high up in the trees. Although quite spectacular, you will see more human beings than animals; for more nature indulgence, you can join very affordable guided walks in the forest.    

 

Takoradi​

​Takoradi is the only place along the West Coast that has a direct railway connection (with Kumasi). It is a large town where also many expats and volunteers temporary stay, and it has some great outdoor bars. This is also what I mostly (or rather: vaguely) remember of Takoradi - having had a splendid time drinking with foreigners. Which was a real treat for once after almost two months of traveling in rural areas.  Also, the stories of volunteers are often interesting, ranging from slightly amusing (how the often pretty young girls deal with the local boys for example) to heartbreaking (babies dying of diarrhea in rural clinics due to lack of medicines).

​

​Sekondi

Nice to walk around the old colonial areas, see the old train station and the Fort, amazing how many of these buildings still stand and being occupied to the fullest by the current inhabitants.  

​​

Busua

Busua is a backpackers' favorite, with beautiful and hassle free beaches where you can hang out safely even in the evenings. There are rasta bars with drumming sessions until the early hours, and of course you will find "pancake men" here, all a bit "Thailand style".​ So it is one of those places where you go for relaxation and beach time, and meet other backpackers, but not the obvious choice if you are in search of tranquility. I loved the campfires and swims at night! Expect lots of tourists/foreigners and teenagers from the big towns here. Choice of various accommodation and food options between basic and luxury.

 

​Butre

A picturesque fishing village in a bay. Perched on a small hill is the Fort Batenstein, constructed in the 1650's. Back in 2003 it was overgrown and you had to be aware of snakes and the like while having a look, but I recently saw some photo's of a beautifully restored fort. The walk from Busua is enjoyable, along the coast and takes one and a half hour, including a canoe ride across a small estuary​. It's a suitable half day excursion if you would feel guilty about too much laziness... organize a few people and hire a local, knowledgeable guide for added value.

​

Dixcove

A fishing village bigger and with much less charm than Butre, it has an old British fort called Fort Metal Cross, including several canons overlooking the ocean. Strikingly whitewashed and offering some views over the village and ocean. I carried the backpack from Busua, walked the half an hour to Dixcove and returned to Takoradi from here. Apart from the transport connection, I thought the sidetrip didn't add much.

 

Prince's Town, Cape Three Points and Axim

Overlooking Prince's Town and the ocean, the Fort Gross-Friedrichsburg is a rare 17th century German slave- fort which serves as a decent guesthouse today, and it is a great place to stay. From here you can easily organize a guide for excursions.  Take a relaxing canoe trip on the Kpani river - lined by mangroves, visit a palm wine distillery, or a rubber plantation,  or take a day-hike through a forest reserve to Cape Three Points with its lighthouse (the southern most point of Ghana) and return along the strip of sand that separates the ocean from a big lagoon. I employed a guide to walk from Prince's Town to Axim as well, took around 3 hours along some fine coastal footpaths , passing some villages that rarely see western visitors.  In Axim I didn't do much exploration, the tented camp right on the beach was a great attraction in its own right! Unlike tiny Busua, Axim is a substantial town and not (yet) preferred by young backpackers and party goers, but rather by families and romantic couples.