Lomé

Lomé is a vibrant and – certainly for an African capital city – agreeable choice to spend a couple of days. From the taxi stand I took to a moto taxi ($0,30) to the central, cosy and popular French owned Auberge de Gaulion. Rooms (s/c) here were terribly run down and overpriced ($8), but offered otherwise a pleasant "home" with great food and drinks. Via the shady boulevard I took a stroll to the Grand Marché, which seems to be the heart of all movement in Lomé. Stepping into this bustling and gigantic market is an overwhelming experience to all senses. A youngster approached me and proposed to guide me around. Now I was alone and felt disoriented on my first day here. He spoke English, and I felt comfortable with him, so  happily accepted his offer, for which he deserved of course a good day wage, in addition to a decent meal.

Lomé - Marché des Féticheurs

This highly unusual market is a must see for those with interest in all kinds of ingredients for voodoo practise and traditional medicines. Voodoo is one of the oldest religions in the world that probably originates from Benin and Togo, and is still practised. The specialty of the Marché des Féticheurs seem all kinds of animal skulls. In addition to the more domesticated animal bones, you can find more exclusive stuff like monkey, rhino and elephant too! The latter are expensive but people usually buy small pieces only, which they mix with a range of other substances to produce a medicine or magical drink. Apart from skulls and bones, you will find thousands of dried animals too. In popular demand seem dried birds, chameleons, animals that are normally described as small bushmeat, as well as heads of crocodile, dog and sheep. If you’re more into animal skins, you will find a large variety too. Craftsmen prepare fresh skins on the spot. It’s "interesting" but disguisting too, to see aspects of the skin that are in daily life out of sight! You can have a consult with a priest as well, if you like…

So summarized, the merchandise of the 20 something stalls largely consists of mummified animals, animal skins, primate and other skulls and such things like voodoo dolls. To get there, go to the (shared) taxi stand on Grand Marché and ask for Akodessewa (less than $1). Some may regard the market as a tourist trap for the way you are pushed to spend money, but it is not as bad as the $9 that a Lonely Planet writer apparently paid. After some bargaining I ended up spending $0,75 for a self appointed, but quite useful guide, a total of $2 to have a look at the priest's business including a stone for reputedly good memory, and a combined sum of $0,50 to several children preventing me to take pictures of their stands. Since I was under the impression that there’s not much local business going on, I think it’s understandable they want something from their "tourist attraction". The way it is disorganised, could be quite an annoyance to the unwary tourist indeed. But in return, you probably just visited (and took pictures) at one of the most unusual markets you’ve seen in your life!!

The beach of Lomé - especially on Sundays

Lomé lies right at the sea and its boulevard is lined with palmtrees, adjoining a wide sandy beach. Sunbathing (in swimsuits) is highly uncommon here and swimming dangerous due to the strong currents, but it’s a good place to socialize and enjoy the cool breeze. On Sunday afternoons thousands of people gather here, towards sunrise joined by hundreds of joggers! The only “hassle” are some teenage boys who stick at you hoping to “become friends” (and win a sponsorship).

Robinson' Plage just outside Lomé - private beach for the "happy few"

One of the few places where it’s safe to swim and common to sunbath, is a stretch of private beach in front of Robinson’s Resort, that serves drinks and food as well. Expatriates say this is the best beach in Togo, but that's very hard to believe. The beach itself is not very beautiful and the views are obscured by the port and remains of old ruins along the shore. But it is probably the only beach that is secured and exclusive to guests - everyone who cannot afford paying $1,75 for a drink is kept outside. That said if you’re keen on attracting lots of attention, you could just venture into the public beach area towards the Port. The thatched huts on the dunes are the domain of the local Rastafarian community, and you may join them getting high. But to be honest: I wouldn’t risk anything in a country like Togo.

Fan Milk - the favorite refreshment of West Africa

I just need to spend a word on Fan Milk as I enjoyed the products almost every day, sometimes several times a day. Sold by young men on bicycles, The Fan Milk products are addicting and available at almost every corner of the street. Imagine the heat and dust that you suffer from in tropical conditions, and suddenly you hear the sound of the Fan Milk boy. In a reflex you start waving like crazy, he stops and you can't wait to have a look what's available in the box. Oh it’s soooo hard to choose, but my favourites were:
1. FanYogo Vanilla Yoghurt (frozen);
2. FanYogo Strawberry Yoghurt (frozen);
3. Tampico (rarely frozen but ice-cold lemon or orange juice);
4. FanIce (Vanilla Ice);
5. Tropical Cocktail (another great juice);
6. Fanpop (ice with water and flavour in 5 different varieties);
7. FanYogo Chocolate Milk (frozen).
Outside of Lomé it’s unusual to find all products available at the same time. They typically cost from $0,10 (Fanpop) to $0,20 (Yogo).