Sani Lodge Backpakers is my first big goal in South Africa. Beautifully situated in the foothills of the Southern Drakensberg, along the last bits of asphalt on the road that finally reaches Lesotho via a series of steep hairpin bends. From the lodge I walk straight into the Drakenberg National Park and climb uphill; the weather is lovely, there are superb views, there is peace. At a distance, a group of moose is spying on me, but they run away when I look at them. Then I almost kick a life-threatening snake, that is resting in the sun. I am in shock for a moment, but when the beast hardly seems to bother, I come closer. Then I suddenly see his neck expand and being raised; focuses on me, tongue out. OK, I better get away from it now. When I return to the lodge a few hours later, I happily pull a beer out of the fridge and join a small but colorful group of travelers and tourists on the shady veranda.

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The second day I join a Sani Pass tour. In  a Landrover we slowly crawl to the border crossing between South Africa and Lesotho high in the mountains. A large part of the ride is through thick cloud cover and rain. But that changes drastically when we finally reach above the clouds in Lesotho. Lesotho consists almost entirely of highlands, and from where we are, we have great panoramic views. Next is another highlight of the tour, at least according to the brochure: A visit to a traditional Basotho village. Just across the border, along the asphalt road, there are a number of rondavals, or traditional round huts. Tourists can freely walk in and out, locals play some music, dances are performed and souvenirs are on sale. It is everything but an authentic experience,  and on top I discover that those natives are largely exploited. Tourists pay significant amounts to agents for these popular tours, but the village is not being compensated at all for their hospitality and trying hard to be the much promoted highlight of the brochure. Instead, they have to hope for a few tips. But in reality, this means selling their privacy and culture for close to nothing in return. While the South African operators become richer day after day. Shortly after I complained to Sani Lodge, and reported my experience online, it was announced there would be negotiations on a fixed fee per visitor to the village, to be settled by the agent from the tour price. Hope so...

  

Where most jeep groups turn around immediately after this big attraction, back to South Africa, we drive onwards and park on a secluded plateau, a wonderful place for lunch. I'm going to stretch my legs. A group of boys, dressed in their characteristic blankets, walk in the distance. They sit down and wave at me. I climb up and shake hands. They don't speak English but we make sounds and gestures and we have fun. I give them my packed lunch, which they share among themselves. They all take one bite from the apple. Then it's time to go. Our last stop, before we dive into the clouds below, is a middle class establishment that promotes itself as being the highest pub in Africa. That does not interest me actually, but the beer tastes excellent and we have fun.

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It is already after 6pm when I stroll through the town of Underberg, in search of a bed. The central inn was fully booked, so I follow a B&B sign along an unpaved road. Then I arrive at the fence of a beautiful country house, situated in a beautiful garden, which you could also call a small park. I apologize for ringing the bell at this time without notice, but I am warmly welcomed. When I explain that I want to go to Lesotho by public transport tomorrow, but I have no idea how, and at what time that might be, mrs. Val on duty and owner Monica start calling friends, acquaintances and numbers from the yellow pages. However, we wouldn't become wiser tonight.  Monica shows me my room and, an hour later, gives me a ride to a nearby restaurant, where she approaches the manager to point out that I am her valued guest and I should be treated as such.