South Africa is sometimes not easy to travel, certainly not if you deviate from the standard backpackers route and do not have your own transport, like me.  By a series of minibus taxis I was able to reach Kimberley, the capital of Northern Cape, but that was about it. Organized tours were not on offer here, private taxis rare and too expensive for out of town. Travelers might spend a few hours in Kimberley to admire Groot Gat (Big Hole), but the arid semi-desert, that largely comprises the province, is rarely on the tourist's wish list. I came to Kimberley completely unaware of these matters, and now I was here.

Excited, and having high expectations, I entered the impressive Tourist Office, just before closing time, but five minutes later I left the building disillusioned. Accommodation was also an issue, as there happened to be a huge conference in town right now. The hotels and B & B´s I try are fully booked and an hour and a half later I am still roaming the streets. It is already starting to get dark. The next B&B I try, is also fully booked. I ask the white manager what about the big hotel a bit further in the street. He insists that they don´t want whites there, and it´s not safe there,  but I do not care, and I am warmly welcomed. Next on the program is to eat something. I stroll towards the KFC, about a kilometer away. But dining out here is not a relaxed experience. While I eat, street kids prey on my food scraps. One boy dressed in rags even invites himself at my table, so that he would be first to snatch that chicken bones as soon as I'm done. During the walk back to the somewhat remote hotel, in uncomfortable darkness, I feel being followed, don't feel safe. I enter the  Shell gas station and consult with the staff, maybe they could call a cab. Instead, one of their guys is appointed to walk with me. Along the way my "guard" casually tells me he had been in jail the past years because he killed someone. And so, that I would be safe with him. All in all most of my initial excitement was gone when I finally retired to my bedroom. 

I think about the continuation of my holiday. There is simply no realistic option for adventure in the province. The next morning I book the night bus to Cape Town, the first available option, which is no sooner than two days from now.