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Ghana: Xavi

Tours on the Lotor River

Near Akatsi market, I looked for a tro-tro (minibus) to the village of Xavi, and people asked me five times if I was really sure. I thought that was a bit weird as the place would host quite a well known community based tourism project. After an hour or two, the tro-tro finally filled up, and half an hour driving later I was dropped at a small village. The tiny settlement seemed completely abandoned as I strolled between the huts. Then I found an old lady who didn’t speak English; with hand signs I explained I wanted to make a canoe trip on the river; now she seemed to understand. Some time passed before she returned with a youngster. "You need canoe?".  He noticed my hesitation. Then it appeared I had arrived in Have, not Xavi which is pronounced similarly (at least to my ears!), and there was no river here. He guessed I wanted him to build a canoe for me, which they apparently did here.  After this total misunderstanding I waited at the road for another hour before a truck passed, that gave me a ride back to town. Instead of early morning it was going to be afternoon before I would arrive in Xavi….but at least I saw Have!

Xavi and the Lotor River

Although Xavi is probably the least visited of all community based tourism projects in the Volta Region, I rate the guided canoe tour on the Lotor River as a regional highlight. The Lotor River is about a 15 minutes' walk from Xavi Village and surrounded by thick, coastal savannah landcapes and wetlands that is habitat to about ninety species of exotic birds like kingfishers and parrots. Also the green mamba is apparently commonly seen (not by me though). During the one hour canoe tour I was able to spot many colourful birds, despite the fact that it was  early afternoon, and one of the poorest time of the day for bird watching. The Lotor river was quiet and peaceful, one of the reasons being that it has a spiritual importance, and the villagers pay respect by not disturbing it. Hence, motorized boats were taboo. The only action came from men slowly paddling in tiny fishing canoes. It was a very enjoyable and relaxing experience.

Xavi and the Baobab Grove Tour

After the Lotor River Tour we took it easy at the guide’s home, consuming akpateshi (the popular local brew) and then hiked along cultivated land to the Baobab Grove, a small area dotted with no less than 60 Baobab trees.  Not that I haven’t seen this type of trees before, but it was especially the hike with the guides – and their stories and jokes - that was good fun.  It was dark when we returned at the Visitor’s Centre. Luckily it was market day in Akatsi town today, and finding a ride was easy for a change… There was the option to stay overnight in Xavi too, and maybe I regret now that I hurried back, I felt it had been a bit of a rush and Xavi deserved more of my time.

Visited: Aug 2003

Tips & Impressions originally posted on Virtualtourist.com

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